Hundreds of Miles from Home
日本で過ごした日々の記録

12/30/2004

I Demand a Recount

I am expecting the New Year in Japan to be exciting or at least celebrated in different manner, but I have to get Christmas out of the way first. As was mentioned earlier, I traveled to Tsuyama on christmas day by train to spend time with Janna (who lives in Tsuyama) and Cori (who was coming from Okayama). But before that, on Christmas Eve and after the surf rock band concert and dinner, Jittan, Shoko, Masatoshi, Shun, and I opened our christmas presents. I gave Jittan one of my West Virginia t-shirts with a huge bass fish on it. She thought it was hilarious and we all noted that about three of her could fit inside it. For Shoko I found her favorite candy in Okayama and wrapped it with a considerably smaller West Virginia t-shirt. Shun got a shirt with a bunch of flowers on it (haha). He liked it, though. I put the most thought into Masatoshi's present, but maybe beacuse he was the easiest to shop for. I found some great dog-print boxers and a dog-print tie as well. Since he's always squinting at things through his glasses, I found a massive magnifying glass at the 100 yen shop. And a dog statue from one of the shrines we visited earlier in the year. He laughed for a long time so I guess he enjoyed the gifts. I even caught him using the magnifying glass later.

I got some gifts too. My parents sent me some socks and a lime green turtleneck for cold weather, and Mimi sent (matching) gloves and scarf which match my emo black jacket. Nora sent two awesome stuffed robots with funny names. The Watanabes bought me two books, one about sumo with a ton of funny pictures and another about Go (which is extremely difficult to comprehend). They also bought me a stuffed dog made from super-soft material that I had my eye on for a while.

But back to Tsuyama. After arriving at Tsuyama station I met Janna and discovered that Cori was going to be late. Janna and I rented some bikes then went shopping at a nearby mall while Cori figured out which train would get her to Tsuyama. A few hours later Cori finally arrived and we rode our bikes around town, ate lunch, then back to Janna's house. After some cake and a chat with Janna's family we headed to the Tsuyama International Hotel where the three of us would be staying that nite. The Tsuyama rotary club was hosting a party so about 25 people were there for the occasion. Dinner was amusing, with an appearance from Japan's own Santa Claus who facilitated the gift exchange. By the end of the evening I received some picture frames, a dreamcatcher, bizen pottery, and various other miscellany. Oh and lots of chocolate.

After dinner, Janna, Cori, and I stayed up a good part of the nite in the apparently deserted hotel. There (among other spectacles) we encountered the door leading to nowhere as well as the "stairs of refuge."

In the morning, I woke up early for continental breakfast, then went to the girls room to see if they were up. After we packed everything, Tomosue-san and Hikasa-san picked us up in a giant Hummer. It looked even larger because of the small size of japanese cars in general. After making a quick rap video featuring the Hummer, we were on our way. Our first stop was Diasen, a famous mountain to the north of Tsuyama. When we arrived I saw snow for the first time in Japan, although it was a little thin for skiing. We stopped for a while on Diasen and rode a ski lift to where people were skiing and snowboarding. A massive snowball fight insued involving both kids and rotary members. We didn't ski due to the lack of snow, but were promised that in the next few months we could come any time we wanted.

After some refreshments on Diasen, we piled back in the Hummer (which turned out to be useful on the icy roads) to go the nearby Tiffany museum. With my knowledge of Mr. Tiffany, I suspected the museum would contain a bunch of lamps, and maybe some jewelry. I was way off. There were masterpieces in each of twelve categories manufactured by Tiffany: lamps, windows, ceramics, furniture, fancy goods, art jewelry, vases, silver, enamels, bronzes, mosaics, and paintings. On top of that, the museum plays host to a very large garden in which I would have been forced to spend a great deal of time had my mother been nearby. I was very impressed, and in fact wished I could have spent more time in the museum. In the chapel of the Tiffany museum, some handbell players performed and then sang energetic christmas songs that reminded me of "Sister Act."

Before calling it a day, the five of us stopped at a nearby famous onsen to relax after a long day (of relaxing). The onsen was shaped like a giant bowl because the town is known for bowl making. Made sense to me. Although I cannot vouch to be a critic of japanese onsen, the water quality was good and the company friendly.

That evening, after a dinner of sushi, I bid farewell to Tomosue-san and Hikasa-san. Cori and I took a high speed train back to Okayama, where I then caught a bus for Tamano. Arriving home, I found that both Miyu and Mai had returned from college. We talked for a long time and watched "Dawn of the Dead" before I collapsed from exhaustion. Mai gave me a Tokyo Giants (baseball team) mascot figure that doubles as a bank, and I gave Mai and Miyu something from my collection of fine West Virginian goods.

The following day I started the sad process of packing for my next host family. But I'll leave that up to another entry.

12/27/2004


Nora's christmas gift all the way from America. Two handmade stuffed robots that sat nicely on the christmas tree :D Posted by Hello


Two days before Christmas, Masatoshi took the whole family to a fancy dinner at the Marine Hotel. A jazz band played (his favorite). Picture is of a snow machine at the end of the performance Posted by Hello


For Christmas Eve, Shoko, Jittan, and I went to Miyama Park for dinner, and a band played. But not just any band, a surf-rock "wipeout" style band. Probably the best Christmas Eve ever. Posted by Hello


Jittan and Shoko in the holiday spirit Posted by Hello


Janna with crazy-hand mannequin. We went shopping in Tsuyama on Christmas Posted by Hello


The Rotary Christmas party at the Tsuyama International Hotel (I stayed the night after the party) Posted by Hello


Santa Claus made an appearance for the gift exchange Posted by Hello


If things start getting ugly... Posted by Hello


Even crazier, this door goes nowhere! Japan is insane! Posted by Hello


Our ride for the day in Tsuyama. Janna said "It's like being in a rap video" Posted by Hello


This is the face I would make if I were in aforementioned rap video Posted by Hello


At Diasen mountain, where we did not ski because there wasn't a lot of snow, but perfect snowball weather Posted by Hello


We travled from the ski slope to a Tiffany musuem. Me in the English garden Posted by Hello


Part of the garden inside the Tiffany musuem Posted by Hello


Before I took the train back home, the five of us went to an onsen (public bath). This one was shaped like a giant bowl because the town is famous for bowl-making Posted by Hello

Christmas in Japan

Before I pack up and leave for my next host family I have to post at least a few pictures of this Christmas, because it was unlike anything I'd expected or experienced in the past.

Just pictures for now, more detailed explanation to come later...

12/24/2004


Yuudai and Nakkan! Posted by Hello


Some of "the adults" Posted by Hello


Awww Posted by Hello


Party people in the house Posted by Hello


Meeting the mayor of Tamano Posted by Hello


My translator, who graduated from WVU Posted by Hello


On the playground Posted by Hello


Extreme Sports: Hazard cone beachside limbo Posted by Hello


Andee wearing Jittan's hat Posted by Hello


Finding Nemo at the Marine Hotel Posted by Hello


Long jump to the sea Posted by Hello


Handstand on the beach Posted by Hello


Oceanside Posted by Hello


Shoko and Jittan under the christmas tree Posted by Hello


Shoko with a sign reading "The Shokster" Posted by Hello


At the Lions club meeting Posted by Hello

Dealing with Public Officials

I would wait to post this later, but this week deserves posts in porportion to the amount of fun experienced. And otherwise I would become lethargic and forgetful.

Jittan is here for the holidays, with a brand new digital camera (many of the picture posts are hers). After the last Lions club meeting, and in a strange twist of fate, the club invited Jittan, Andee, and myself to another Lions club meeting at the Marine Hotel. We all acted as translators for Evelyn (Jittan for chinese, Andee for malay and english, me to eat leftover food). This would be a good opportinity to talk about not only Lions club meetings, but Rotary meetings as well. In Japan both the Lions and Rotary clubs open their meetings with a song (mostly japanese, sprinkled with english). The meeting then takes place with speakers and such, photographs are taken, and meeting is closed again with a song. The Rotary closing ceremony involves standing in a large circle, holding hands, and singing a song I did not know. The Lions club however, in a ferocious manner that would befit a lion, ends their meetings by making closed fists, punching both arms out horizontal to the floor, and saying three times, "we serve all." (Note: I am not making this up)

Following the Lions club meeting, Evelyn was scheduled to meet the mayor of Tamano. As it turned out I was supposed to meet the mayor the following day, but the Lions club asked me to come along anyway and translate. I figured I could size him up one day and know what to expect the next. Before the meeting, however, was a three hour stretch of time to kill. It was a nice day so Shoko, Jittan, Andee, and I went to nearby Shibukawa beach, and then to a playground. Shoko looked like a schoolgirl on the swings, and everyone agrees she is much more like a sister than mother. After the playground we had tea and cake at the Hotel, then left for city hall. The Mayor didn't keep us waiting, and we went right into a large conference room to meet him. He has a crazy hairstyle but seemed very friendly. And if I had a dollar for every translator in the room I could have easily bribed a public official. I did very little talking (it was Evelyn's meeting, anyway) but made sure he would remember my face for when I came the next day.

For me, meeting the Mayor was full of surprises. When I arrived at city hall with Shoko, the Rotary councellor and president (man who traded me the light up house for a box of cookies) had already arrived. Furukawa-sensei, a teacher from school, also came to translate for me. From what I can tell, when people come to meet the mayor they are expected to know little-to-no japanese. In fact, if I had met the mayor when I was origionally scheduled, it would have been a few weeks after coming to japan. It was rescheduled due to a typhoon that flooded Tamano, and then rescheduled again after a second typhoon and set of earthquakes hit Tamano (guess I'm bad luck).

When I walked into the mayor's office, a translator from city hall greeted me with a huge smile on her face. She came right up to me and said "I graduated from West Vriginia University." ::dramatic pause:: I couldn't belive it. She knew exactly where I lived and all about Morgantown. How wild! I forgot all about the mayor until the secretary told me I could go into his conference room. The mayor recognized me from the day before, and we had a really great meeting. I understood most of his japanese, and really didn't need any of the numerous translators in the room.

After the encounter with the Mayor I came back home where Jittan and Andee were hastily cooking food for that night's huge holiday party at our house. Tons of people came, including some friends from school, english teachers from the area, and most of Shoko's japanese friends. There was a ton of food, and during the party Jez (english teacher from Australia) played piano and sang. Jez told a funny story about renting a car to Ben from Ben Folds Five in Australia. When Ben returned the car he left a copy of his unreleased album in the cd changer. He came back to get it the next day but not before Jez had made a copy for himself. I would have just been happy renting a car to a rock star. On top of that, Neil, another english teacher, hung out with Guster at Tuffs, and John Davey lived near the Barenaked Ladies, his brother knowing two of the members. No fair. Much fun was had at the party but I'll let the pictures tell the story.

Until next year...

12/20/2004


Shoko laughing at her friend's english Posted by Hello


Hanging out with Shoko's High School friends Posted by Hello


The Lions Club president and I Posted by Hello


Evelyn in a snappy looking blazer, me sporting some Keith Harring Posted by Hello


Shoko and the stash of gifts Posted by Hello


Trying my luck at the ring toss Posted by Hello


My best Yon-sama inpression. Or maybe Harry Potter Posted by Hello


Latkeman; a can of oil and a dream Posted by Hello


Surprise! Posted by Hello


Peter from Australia, also known as P-chan Posted by Hello


Everyone in Japan eats christmas cake, with the same frequency that Americans eat turkey on Thanksgiving. Your guess is as good as mine Posted by Hello


Happy Christmas'u' Posted by Hello

Fight For Your Right

This week is full of parties and visitors (as fits the holiday season). As far as people, a new boy Peter from Australia is staying in Tamano for a month, going to Tamano High School. I met a girl from Malaysia, and Jittan is also staying with the Watanabe family for a few days before winter break. Shoko is getting ready to host a knockout holiday party, inviting more people than I thought lived in the town of Tamano.

This week, the ESS (English speaking society) threw a party after school. A bunch of kids showed up, but ironically all business was conducted in Japanese (except conversation between Andee, Peter, and I). I ate far too much candy, cake and chocolate, and was repeatedly whooped at UNO. This reinforced the fact that many japanese games are "punishment" related. By that I mean that the losers are usually subjected to some sort of (small) torture. In the case of the ESS party, losers had to drink a whole glass of shaved-ice topping, sugary enough to shut down a kidney. Other variations I have wintessed at school include a slap to the arm (shi-pe), a finger flick to the forehead (deco-pin), and a chop to the head (you guessed it, cho-pu). After the party (because it's always good to chase sugar with oil) I made another batch of latkes, twice the size of the first installment. Andee came over to help dispose of them.

This week the Rotary Club of Tamano threw their holiday party at the Marine Hotel, which Masatoshi, Shoko, and I attended. It was good to see some of the rotary members get tipsy and play bingo following the extra-large buffet style dinner. While I did not win at bingo, I was a huge winner for the evening. One of the rotary members, after having a few too many drinks, offered to trade a box of cookies which I won at a ring toss game for a large unopened box wrapped in red paper he had won at bingo. My mind shot instantly to the thought of a Japanese Monty Hall from Let's Make a Deal. Did I really want to trade my box of cookies for what may or may not be in his box? Perhaps it was filled with cabbages, as I had witnessed so many times on that addictive TV program. For all I knew it could be a goat, or a lifetime supply of baked beans. Against my best judgement (and love for cookies), I made the trade and thanked him by pouring another glass of beer for the rotary member (a sign of respect). When the night was over I went home with two boxes of expensive pears (gifts for everyone at the party), a fiber optic christmas tree that now sits in the TV room (much less tacky than one would expect), two boxes of chocolate cookies, some japanese lottery tickets, and a light up fiber optic christmas house that Shoko gave to one of her friends as a christmas gift (it won't be missed).

Later in the week, I found the chance to go to two parties at the same hotel in Tamano. Another new face had shown up in town, Evelyn (real name Poon Tze Sun) from Malaysia who was on exchange for a few weeks in Japan through the Lions club. Shoko was celebrating a Tamano High School Reunion (she refused to tell me which year) and the new girl was having a Lions club welcome party at the same place. Shoko's brother, who is in the Lions club, asked me to translate Evelyn's english into japanese. I'll repeat that. Shoko's brother asked me, a run of the mill American looking gaijin to translate for Evelyn, who could pass for japanese anyday (although speaking chinese). I laughed for a long time at the idea, but couldn't resist going. I went to Shoko's party first, chatting with some of her high school friends before going upstairs to the Lions club party. Evelyn was already there with her host sister whom I had met before. Evelyn gave a small speech that she had written in japanese, the Lions club president said a few words, then we began to eat. Throughout dinner the Lions club members asked questions to Evelyn which I translated (more or less) into english, and then retranslated her answers back into japanese. Luckily for me, as the night went on and more alcohol was consumed by the Lionarians (sort of like Rotarians?), they got more brave about their use of english. This led to some really hilarious moments where tipsy japanese men tried their best at simple, although often misused, english words and phrases, while repeatedly questioning me if I though Evelyn's host sister (who was a Lions member's daughter) was pretty. I was so happy when Evelyn told me she had a good time, because if I had not have witnessed this sort of crazy behavior before it would be the strangest welcome party I'd ever seen. We talked during the dinner in english, and she told me a little about Malaysia (of which I know very little).

When the party was over, Shoko's brother brought me back downstairs to where Shoko was finishing dinner. She told me that some of her friends were going to go to a karaoke parlor, and asked if I wanted to come along (but of course). The bar was close, so we walked. Along the way I realized that I knew many of the people who were at the party, and others introduced themselves to me. When we got to the parlor, I chatted with two men who knew me indirectly; one had a daughter at Tamano High School, and the other practiced Aikido with my homeroom teacher (I am thinking of joining their Aikido class sometime next year). The man to my left thoroughly embarassed his daughter (I'm sure), by calling her on the phone and telling her to talk to me the next time she saw me (for reasons I am unsure of). Subsequently, today at school she pointed herself out to me, and we had a good conversation. Another man at the party called his friend in Tokyo who couldn't make it to the reunion, and told me to talk to him in english, really fast. Everyone got a pretty good kick out of that. All he could say was "I don't understand," and "too fast!" By the end of the evening I learned that japanese people really like to drink whiskey and water, and that you can still be middle aged and have fun.

But everyone already knew that, right?

12/17/2004


On the Seto-Ohashi heading to Shikoku Posted by Hello


The main shrine of Konpira-san, about 500 steps up the mountain Posted by Hello


The steps of Konpira-san Posted by Hello


I guess this is why Konpira-san is a shrine for ships Posted by Hello


Outside of Konpira Osibai; Kabuki theatre Posted by Hello


The main seating area and stage of the Kabuki theatre Posted by Hello


Kabuki bathrooms, clean and simple Posted by Hello


VIP seating Posted by Hello


The mechanism for rotating the stage Posted by Hello

Konpirasan

In my ongoing attempt to catch up to the present, I will recount the activities of this Sunday, a trip with my host family to Konpira-san, a famous mountain on Shikoku island. However, beginning today, I discovered that I will be attending some sort of party everyday for the next week or so. Then on the 28th I will be moving to my new host family, Kawai-san, after a christmas trip to Tsuyama and perhaps Daisen mountain for skiing/snowboarding. Winter break starts on the 24th, so depending on time and computer access I will try to avoid long periods of radio silence. With that said...

Konpira-san is located on Shikoku island, the fourth largest island in japan. The official name of the mountain is Kotohiraguu, and it was called Konpiradaigongen during the Edo period. Konpira, if you were wondering, is an Indian God who protects Buddism, hence the name, Konpira-san.

Konpira-san is known as a shrine to ships, but the exact reason was not explained to me. Something about an old man stopping on the island and climbing a large amount of steps to look out over the city. And if there is one thing that Konpira-san posesses, it's steps. 1368 steps, to be exact, all the way to the small shrine at the top of the mountain. The specific reason that the Watanabe's took me to Konpirasan was to hopefully get a glimpse of a special room that is only opened to the public every 125 years. Unfortunately, there were people lined up the first 300 steps waiting to see the room, so we decided that I probably had a better chance of viewing the room in another 125 years. Not to waste the trip to the mountain, I convinced Masatoshi and Shoko to take the trek up the 1368 stairs to the pinnacle (a feat Shoko had only performed once before, and Masatoshi had never attempted).

I consider myself "capable" when it comes to math, but comprehending large numbers always had a way of perplexing me. "Math field day" repeatedly angered me when it came to estimating the number of pennies in a jar or some such nonsense. But I now have very concrete and palpable knowledge of what it feels like to climb, and then descend 2736 stairs. As a consolation I was lucky that I didn't try the climb in summer, which would have been much more uncomfortable. It was actually quite refreshing to reach the top of the mountain and gaze out over the town of Kotohira. And even though the lower shrines were packed with people waiting to see the famous tatami room, very few wandered up to the top of the mountain.

On the way back down the mountain, about 500 steps from the bottom, I really needed to use a bathroom. I felt worried because the sanitation of bathrooms can be questionable (varying from dirty to "hole-in-the-ground"), and I didn't expect much this high above sea level. My host dad inquired, and we were led to a very fancy, very new looking shrine addition. Upon entering the bathroom, my jaw dropped clear to the marble tiled floor. In addition to a heated toilet seat, this bathroom sported hot and cold water, a large mirror, as well as handtowels, a veritable unknown in many japanese bathrooms.

After returning to the bottom of the mountain, I ate a lunch of Konpirasan udon, then left to visit a nearby Kabuki theatre. Konpira Osibai, also known as Kanamaruza, is the oldest Kabuki theatre in japan. It was built in 1835, during the Edo period. Recently it has been fully restored, and one can tour all parts of the building, including backstage and dressing room areas. Some of the special features of the theatre include a revolving stage, as well as platforms that were rotated, raised, and lowered by human power. The revolving stage allowed for multiple scenes to be prepared backstage, the rotated into place quickly.

After the theatre, we stopped for some cake in a local shop before heading back to Tamano.

12/16/2004

Happy Hanukkah, Chanukkah, etc...

For all of you who have been repeatedly bamboozled by the mysteries of a certain winter holiday, I highly suggest you read this informative description of Hanukkah

Happy Hanukkah, Merry Christmas, New Year, Qwanza, and so on...

12/15/2004


With Minami High School International Club Posted by Hello


Beginning of the fashion show Posted by Hello


Showing off their dresses Posted by Hello


Dressed for a fight Posted by Hello